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Mike and Shelia Biaggi, of Healdsburg, enjoying beer and wine being served during Farm Trails' BBQ, Brews & Barn Dance held at Dutton Ranch near Graton, Saturday, May 31, 2014. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)

Mike and Shelia Biaggi, of Healdsburg, enjoying beer and wine being served during Farm Trails’ BBQ, Brews & Barn Dance held at Dutton Ranch near Graton, Saturday, May 31, 2014. (Erik Castro / For The Press Democrat)


Now that was a 21st-century, homegrown, organic, inventive, dusty-shoe-tapping Sonoma County hoedown.

Dutton Ranch, near Graton, was the site Saturday of Farm Trails’ second BBQ, Brews & Barn Dance, a fair-weather celebration of local food, drink, music and community that benefits Sebastopol’s Gravenstein Apple Fair.

It kicked off in the ranch’s airy barn with Sonoma-Marin artisan cheeses, beer, cider, wines and honey mead.

As they tasted and visited and placed bids in the silent auction, guests enjoyed the music of Adam Passow. Next came an ultimate SoCo cookout created by chefs Daniel Kedan and Marianna Gardenhire of Backyard restaurant in Forestville. The pair produced farm-to-table magic with chicken from Green Star Farm, Weirauch Ranch lamb, tri-tip and top sirloin from Stemple Creek Ranch, Little Organic Farm potatoes, mixed greens from Laguna Farm, and Alive & Healing tempeh, shiitake mushrooms and onions.

And for dessert? Just strawberry trifle from Farmer Lao’s stand and Double 8 Dairy water buffalo-milk gelato.

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There was post-feast conversation and Taylor Maid coffee, Traditional Medicinals tea and Yerba Mate from Guayaki.

For the perfect finish, the “Sonomacana” tunes of Cahoots beckoned all onto the dance floor.